Korean Skincare Routine: 10 Step Plan
In its best-known form, a Korean skincare routine has ten steps: oil cleanser, water cleanser, exfoliant, toner, essence, serum, sheet mask, eye cream, moisturiser and SPF. You don't need all of them every day. The core is double cleansing, hydrating in thin layers and a good SPF during the day. You add the other steps when your skin asks for them.
What makes Korean skincare different?
Korean skincare is about prevention rather than repair. Your skin gets moisture every day in light layers, you cleanse thoroughly but gently, and you protect it from the sun. That keeps your skin barrier strong and makes your skin look hydrated and even, which in Korea is called glass skin. You'll find every product in the Korean beauty collection.
What are the ten steps of the Korean skincare routine?
| Step | Product | When | Needed? |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Oil cleanser | Evening | If you wear make-up or SPF |
| 2 | Water cleanser | Morning and evening | Yes |
| 3 | Exfoliant | Once or twice a week | Optional |
| 4 | Toner | Morning and evening | Recommended |
| 5 | Essence | Morning and evening | Optional |
| 6 | Serum or ampoule | Morning and evening | Recommended |
| 7 | Sheet mask | One to three times a week | Optional |
| 8 | Eye cream | Morning and evening | Optional |
| 9 | Moisturiser | Morning and evening | Yes |
| 10 | SPF | Every morning | Yes |
Why do you cleanse in two steps?
Make-up and sunscreen are made to stay put, and water alone doesn't remove them properly. An oil cleanser dissolves them, then a water cleanser removes the oil and the last bit of dirt. Your skin gets clean without scrubbing. Read more in what is double cleansing.
The Heartleaf Pore Control Cleansing Oil by Anua is a blend of plant oils, including jojoba, olive and grape seed oil, with heartleaf extract. Massage it onto a dry face and emulsify with a little water before rinsing.
Then, or as the only step in the morning, comes a gentle gel. The Low pH Good Morning Gel Cleanser by COSRX contains tea tree oil and a mild form of BHA, and doesn't leave your skin feeling tight.
What do toner and essence do?
A Korean toner isn't a harsh lotion but a watery first layer of moisture. It preps your skin for what comes next. The Ginseng Essence Water by Beauty of Joseon is mostly ginseng water, with niacinamide, panthenol and allantoin. Pat it in with your hands. You'll find all options among the Korean toners.
An essence is a little more concentrated and adds a second layer of hydration. The Advanced Snail96 Mucin Power Essence by COSRX contains 96 percent snail secretion filtrate, with hyaluronic acid, allantoin and panthenol. It's fragrance-free and alcohol-free. Find out exactly what an essence is in what is an essence.
Which serum or ampoule should you choose?
This is where you tackle your skin concern: dark spots, redness, breakouts or dryness. An ampoule is a concentrated serum. The Madagascar Centella Ampoule by SKIN1004 contains centella asiatica extract with panthenol and hyaluronic acid, and suits sensitive or red skin. Looking for something for another concern? Take a look at the Korean serums.
Do you really need SPF every day?
Yes. In Korea, SPF is the most important step of the morning, even when it's cloudy. UV radiation causes pigmentation and faster skin ageing. The Relief Sun: Rice + Probiotics by Beauty of Joseon protects with SPF50+ and PA++++, feels light and leaves no white cast. More options are in the Korean sunscreen collection.
How do you start a Korean routine?
Start with four steps: water cleanser, toner, moisturiser and SPF, plus an oil cleanser in the evening if you wear make-up. After a few weeks, add an essence or serum, and a sheet mask when your skin needs an extra boost. That way you notice what works. Prefer everything in one go? Take a look at the Korean skincare sets.
Frequently asked questions
Do you have to do all ten steps?
No. Cleansing, hydrating and SPF are the basics. The other steps are extras for when your skin asks for them.
In what order do you apply products?
From thin to thick: toner, essence, serum, eye cream, moisturiser and SPF last.
Is Korean skincare suitable for sensitive skin?
Often it is, because the products are gentle and contain many soothing ingredients. Do introduce one new product at a time.
How often do you use a sheet mask?
One to three times a week, after your toner and before your moisturiser.